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Why you should use “Worm Worked Soil Conditioner.

Part 1
“Modern” soils are now very often depleted in many of the natural micro organisms that flourish when nature is allowed to work as intended, the most obvious damaged areas are the huge tracts of agricultural land, subject to intensive cultivation, drowned in constant applications of pesticides, herbicides and nutrients, once this method of “management” begins it is a downward spiral needing more and more interference to be able to continue producing a crop AND this has been taking place for many many decades!
This practice has also been applied to many domestic gardens from the day the soil was scraped clean by the developers to owners and gardeners attempting to rectify the situation by using the same methods as in agricultural. Many old established gardens have also gone through periods of this same treatment but many are now realising this as a mistake and are rectifying the situation by looking at how nature can reinstate a balanced soil.

Part 2
We now know what has happened to our soil so why should we change? we could continue using the artificial means to make our gardens grow but it costs money! it is extremely detrimental to soil life which happens to be part of the natural food chain even if low down, this in turn will affect creatures further up the chain, larger organisms, insects, worms which in turn will affect the local population of birds – you get the picture!
When the soil dwelling creatures are depleted the soil itself becomes a problem, losing structure, poor drainage, poor oxygenation, lack of nutrients which in turn means plants will also be affected causing poor growth, greater bug and disease attack traditionally this has been “rectified” by modern management methods and so the cycle continues, surely it makes sense to let nature do the work.

Part 3
So how is this product used? first, in restoring an impoverished soil we have to have the right basis to start, it needs to be friable, if necessary by breaking it up, then we can add our Worm Worked Soil Conditioner, this will introduce the micro organisms, bacteria and fungii that is so essential, adding worms at this stage will also ensure the continued improvement of the soil and reversal of the problems as in Part 2.
This remedial action can of course be applied to every square inch of soil in the garden but if the budget doesn’t stretch that far then it can be applied in specific areas of planting or even to specific plants particularly if planting substantial shrubs and/or trees
It is highly recommended that a regime of annual mulching is undertaken.

To be continued…..

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Ressurecting an old wormery.

This is a question that often comes up, sometimes the wormery has a few worms and some compost still in it or just old compost, providing the wormery is complete and in reasonable condition then it should be put back to good use. If there are any worms present then it may be useful to try and use them, they will need to be picked out of the compost they are in, generally it is not a good idea to use any compost left, it is usually too old or even stagnant best just to start again.

Worms can be purchased from us either loose ( or in a complete worm and bedding kit ( or using the Boxa worms ( if you purchase the worms on their own you will need bedding material, this can be suitable material you have to hand, this is dealt with here ( )or you can purchase just bedding ( the easiest way is to use one of our worm and bedding kits. Having aquired all the necessary components then you can set it all up, advice on how to do this can be found here:

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My garden is waterlogged – will worms help?

This is a query that often comes up during the winter months! gardens often become saturated during periods of persistent long periods of rain, providing the water drains away in a reasonable time, maybe a couple of days or so once it has stopped raining then there is no cause for concern, the problem is when this does not happen and the garden or areas of the garden continue to be water logged, if this situation continues for very long periods of time it can be detrimental to the health of the garden and plants in it. When the air in the soil is forced out by water Oxygen is depleted and the soil will become anaerobic, that is, stagnant, the most obvious sign is it will smell bad!

Sorting this out is not an easy task, clearly the water needs to be drained away and the most effective way to do this is to install some sort of drainage, this may be a bigger task than expected so other, quicker, remedies are considered, often customers have read or been told that adding worms will sort out the problem, this is rarely the case, sometimes if it is a localised soggy area then worms can help. If you suffer from a truly waterlooged garden then adding worms will, at best, result in the worms moving away or at worst, the worms dying off, the only sure way is to put in some sort of drainage system then add the worms , they will then provide the conditions in the soil to allow the drainage system to work properly.

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Introducing Worms to an Established Garden

Cultivated soils, particularly in old gardens frequently suffer from compaction, bad drainage, broken and fragmented structure and devoid of organic matter, usually through bad management in the past, these conditions are incapable of supporting a population of worms, therefore before worms are introduced, these conditions must be remedied. Once this has been achieved, a population of worms can be introduced.

There are two species of soil dwelling worm currently available, these are Lumbricus terrestris and Eisenia hortensis.

Lumbricus terrestris is the large worm that most people are familiar with, it is a slow breeding worm that likes to live in deep undisturbed soils, it also throws worm casts onto the surface and can be seen on grass, particularly after warm rain at night, giving it one of its common names of “Dew worm”
This worm should only be introduced into areas where it will not be disturbed on a regular basis and where the casts on the surface will not cause a problem, many of these worms are deliberately killed because of the “problem” of casts on the lawn.

Eisenia hortensis in contrast, is a comparatively rapid breeder, lives in the top 12 inches of soil and does not throw casts to the surface, making it a good choice for lawn areas, areas likely to be disturbed and areas where the soil is not very deep.
Both species will need ongoing feed in the form of organic matter either as a mulch or not collecting the grass clippings once in a while.

Both worms are a good source of food for wildlife and can be most beneficial in this way.

Once the worms have been introduced, the use of herbicides and pesticides should not be carried out for at least 12 months and preferably not at all.

“Planting worms”

Any worms purchased to be introduced into the soil should never be just scattered on the surface in the belief they will burrow down – they won’t! If left on the surface they are likely to be picked off by the local bird population or even killed off by the sun and ultra violet light.

With both species they should be “planted” dig trowel depth holes, a couple every square metre, water the hole, put in a little natural compost, NOT potting compost, add a few worms and break up the removed soil and put back on top.
In new areas used for shrubs etc, this should be done before any mulch is spread and in lawn areas, before turf or seed are laid, if worms are being introduced to an established garden then there is no choice but to dig the holes through the mulch or grass. The quantity of worms per hole is really down to the customer but as a guide, 2 or 3 Lumbricus terrestris and with Eisenia hortensis, a very small handful or a very large pinch!

What quantity should be planted?

The quantity of worms required is not an exact science, as a rough guide you should be aiming for the following:

Eisenia hortensis – up to 20 worms per square metre, this can be increased or decreased according to budget but not by more than +50% or -50%.

Lumbricus terrestris – this would be around 5 worms per square metre minimum but again the same rule applies as above.

The quantities are governed by surface area NOT depth.

I hope this has been useful, please feel free to copy and download for your own private use. Strictly no commercial use or reproduction without our express, written permission.

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Why Dried Mealworms Make a Poor Feed

We are often asked if we supply dried mealworms in our bricks and mortar shop, sorry but we don’t, there are very good reasons for this, dried mealworms make a poor feed.
Despite all the claims made about being as nutritionally equal to live mealworms, put simply, they are not.
A very important factor is the moisture content, live mealworms naturally do not have high levels of moisture compared to, say, earthorms (80%). When they are dried (and killed)they have no moisture at all, this is particularly dangerous during the breeding season in wild birds, when fed by the parent birds to chicks this can actually cause dehydration as the dried mealworms absorb the moisture from the chick.
This is the opinion of zoo’s that specialise in bird care.

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Which worm is best for composting?

Different composting worms

At Worms Direct one subject that comes up with our customers time and time again is “which composting worm is best” this question arises due to the amount of confusion that has been generated over the years by companies selling worms and pretending they know all about worms and just repeating what others have written! some will quote scientific studies completely out of context, hopefully we can clear away some of this confusion.
First it is important to understand that different species of worms are not available in different countries, therefor you will often see, particularly on forums, that such and such worm is best, yes it is in their country but may not be applicable elsewhere when other worm species are available, as an example, an Indian Blue is an extremely efficient worm in hot climates but in the UK it will die, secondly, particularly in the UK common names are mostly used and have been applied to different worm species – Tiger worm is a prime example, often this is done by sellers who are not aware of the differences! so lets start from the beginning.

The most talked about worm (using a common name) is “Tiger worm” the latin name for this is Eisenia foetida or Eisenia fetida, this the most commonly used worm in the US also known as Red Wiggler and a lot of worm composting information on the internet comes from the US, it is stripey in appearance.

The most commonly grown worm for composting (and fishing) in the UK is “The Dendrobaena” the latin name is Eisenia hortensis or Dendrobaena veneta, it is also stripey in appearance and has therefore been called “Tiger worm” by many growers.

You now have the situation where 2 different species are being called and sold as “Tiger worms”

Apart from ourselves, we are not aware of anyone who is growing the original Tiger worm (Eisenia foetida) as a clean species, many growers will have them mixed in with their Dendrobaena stock.

You will then see growers claiming “Tiger worms” are best but which one? you will see growers claiming the original Tiger worm (Eisenia foetida) is the best and backing this with findings from scientific trials, I have yet to read of any scientific trials that were carried out in domestic wormeries using household waste by inexperienced people!
The truth is that both worm species work and breed better in different conditions:
E. foetida (original Tiger worm) work better in warmer bins, Dendrobaena prefer it cooler.
E. foetida (original Tiger worm) work better in drier conditions, Dendrobaena prefer it wetter
E. foetida (original Tiger worm) work better in denser populations, Dendrobaena need more space
E. foetida (original Tiger worm) are more delicate, Dendrobaena are generally tougher.
E. foetida (original Tiger worm) breed more quickly than Dendrobaena, yes, when its warmer

So you can see, it all depends on the conditions the worms will experience in your wormery, if you can guarantee the right conditions for one or other species then use that worm, if you cannot then play it safe and use a mix of both species (if you can get them). Do not be taken in by sales blurb.

I truly hope this has gone some way to clearing the confusion.